DIY - replace in-tank fuel filter

21 replies [Last post]
bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:

I was quoted $450 to replace the in tank filter. This should be done about the same time as the timing belt and if you are going country probably every 60,000kms

Ryco Z658 cost $70 and filter replacement took about 20 minutes. you can get them from ebay delivered for about $50 but i was unsure of the model and didn't want to post a return back. The Z658 is suitable for all MPI models (2.0, 1.8, 1.6)

1) disconnect the positive terminal of the battery

2) remove the rear seat cushion by gently pulling the front edge up - it is held down by two clips that just need to be yanked free

3) unscrew the four screws holding down the square cover closest to the fuel filler side

 

4) thoroughly dust off the tank access port and disconnect the gauge plug, high-pressure and two low pressure fuel hoses. you will find they will tuck neatly out of the way under the floor. The high pressure hose disconnects by gently depressing the two buttons either side of the hose end (clips are in-line with blue sticker in larger  pic below)

5) Gently remove the pump housing - remember that the filter and gauge point towards the front of the car. 

6) dissassemble the pump assembly, this picture is not 100% accurate but will get you close enough - I did the following:
* unplug all connectors (1 and 2) from filter unit (13) - be gentle with the black wire earth plug
* disconnect the top of both hoses (12) from filter housing (13) then remove the plastic section that (10) points down into (9 - but my 9 was larger) the remove 10 with hoses (12) still attached
* remove high pressure release plug from filter housing (13) it is clipped on with two clips about 40mm below the high pressure outlet
* unclip the pump housing (8) from the filter housing (13) while supporting the feed tube (6) so it also pulls out of 13 - this is a bit tricky and you need to be gnetle to the three clips as the plastic on mine looked brittle

replace filter housing and re-assemble in reverse order paying attention to the positioning of the wiring harness around the feed tube and the pump cussion (4)

my pump housing felt a bit lose on my filter housing but works fine

 

Afterwards I cut my old filter in half - filter should be white - mne is grey/brown as it was solid with mud! and my car now goes much faster and displays more torque.

.

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #1
Are there two filters or just one?

The iO has what Mitsubishi refers to as a "main" tank and a "sub" tank - even though it's physically one tank.  There are two gauge senders, each equipped with it's own low fuel light sensor, and as far as I know, only one fuel pump, in the main tank, and a venturi arrangement which draws fuel from the sub tank - the way the system works, the sub tank empties first, and when fuel is added it will first enter the main tank and then "over flow" into the sub, so the sub fills last.

The parts diagrams I'm looking at show TWO filter part numbers - MR450542 (the one you've replaced) and MB129895 - which as far as I can tell appears to be on the sub tank gauge sender/pickup assembly - the assemblies seem to be the same on both the GDI (which I have) and the MPI fuel tanks.

 

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #2
Two filers

I suspect that there are two fiters, i'm going to pull the sub tank assembly out shortly. Only issue is that only the main tank filter is available as after market

.

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #3
filter

Beautiful....

you wrote

5) Gently remove the pump housing - remember that the filter and gauge point towards the front of the car.

From memory, I wouldn't worry too much as the assembly can only go back in one way.

Happy  io.

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #4
one way

correct - but it is easy to snag the filter on the hump in the tank if you try and put it in sideways

.

fordem
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/06/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #5
It's also easier ...

To not have to rotate it into position - so lean it forward so the float hangs down, slip the float through the opening and then swing the assembly upright and guide it into place - I've had mine out twice during the past weekend.

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #6
Number of filter

fordem wrote:

The iO has what Mitsubishi refers to as a "main" tank and a "sub" tank - even though it's physically one tank.  There are two gauge senders, each equipped with it's own low fuel light sensor, and as far as I know, only one fuel pump, in the main tank, and a venturi arrangement which draws fuel from the sub tank - the way the system works, the sub tank empties first, and when fuel is added it will first enter the main tank and then "over flow" into the sub, so the sub fills last.

The parts diagrams I'm looking at show TWO filter part numbers - MR450542 (the one you've replaced) and MB129895 - which as far as I can tell appears to be on the sub tank gauge sender/pickup assembly - the assemblies seem to be the same on both the GDI (which I have) and the MPI fuel tanks.

 

I removed the other side to have a look and check the filter. I could only find a mesh type filter, similar to the one at the bottom of the fuel pump. Unless damaged, a quick clean should be more than enough. Unless I missed something, I didn't see other filter.

Happy io

 

rhorsewood
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 28/04/2013
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #7
Hey Guys, Sorry I know this

Hey Guys,

Sorry I know this is an old thread, hopefully you guys are still around?

I did this replacement the other day. Found it pretty easy and everything went smoothly. Car runs great however takes a few turns of the engine to start which it didnt do before?

Could it be an air lock in the fuel system Ive created? cant really think of anything else?

Any ideas?

 
bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #8
mine was the same

I had exactly the same issue.

Q did you pull the o ring out of the new filter and fit it over the pump stem prior to fitting or just shove the pump stem into the botom of the filter with the o ring up inside?

I had to hook out the oring, fit onto pump stem then lube it to the max to get it into the filter.

if you tont 100% check that it is sealed air gets in there and the pump leaks fuel out when running. Short term no issues except a few more cracks to start, long term pump will wear out and also filter will wash.

Hope this helps.

.

rhorsewood
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 28/04/2013
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #9
That sounds like the

That sounds like the issue......

 

thanks for the feedback. Ill have a look at it later tonight and let you know how I go.

rhorsewood
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 28/04/2013
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #10
Bob can I just confirm

Bob can I just confirm looking at the diagram earlier in the thread where abouts is the o-ring?

just so Im not looking at something else?

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #11
fuel filter

Bob will confirm this....I don't see the o-ring on the diagram. From memory there are 2 of those, they are in the filter section, in 2 of the solid tube  Bob done it one way by fitting one on the pipe. I did spray some silicon in both tube were the o-ring are (in the new filter), check that the o-ring were properly positioned in the bottom (they were sideways, probably moved during storage/transport). Press the pump back in position, making sure that the clips are properly fitted. I didn't have problem doing it this way.... but that doesn't mean that it is the way of doing it :) 

If you remove it, disconnect the new filter (like when you first got it out a the box) then look in the solid tube, you will see them....you should anyway. one may have fall or gone missing....could happen...

Happy io

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #12
oring

It's the top item marked 7n on the diagram and you can actually see the dark gray fat oring in the photo of the chopped filter.

Main aim is to ensure the plastic high pressure tube from the pump up to the filter is sealed 100%. Fitting it into the filter with the oring fitted to the tube is the only sure way and it is Damn hard to press back in by hand.

Also make sure the rubber pad under the pump is positioned correctly as if not the pump will sit too low.

.

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #13
o ring

There are 2 other o-ring in the new filter, I wasn't thinking of this one in my post.....but important too

Happy io

rhorsewood
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 28/04/2013
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #14
Hey Guys, thanks for the

Hey Guys, thanks for the feedback.

Sorry taking ages getting back to you..... Long Easter break :)

So the problem Im facing is actually the new filter has a slightly different fitting on one of the hose connections on the top. Im going to need to retro fit a better seal than what I first did. Shouldnt be difficult just a pain in the arse. Apart from that the filter is identical I believe (Ryco Z658).

O-Rings are all seated properlyt and Im currently running the old filter again. Ill work up goo hose connection this weekend and post a pic.

 

Thanks again

Claude io
Claude io's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 11/10/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #15
fuel filter

Interesting...

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #16
wrong filter

Cooper list two filters for the io, early and late, the ryco is only for the latter model ios, not the pre 2001-september ones. Will work fine just minor differences.

.

plummer
plummer's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 19/09/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #17
I looked for this filter for

I looked for this filter for my 2004, 2.0 Gdi Pinin and didn't find it to buy in UK.

Can someone confirm if this filter is ok for my Pinin or is it a different model?

PS: The dealer said these are "long life" filters and they are changed very rare. Is it true?

Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one's own courage

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #18
fuel filters

yep - changed every 160,000 or there abouts from memory

.

Excelsior
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 07/06/2014
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #19
Attempted filter change

I attempted a change of the fuel filter today. I may have been sold a defective filter assembly from one of the local shops. Everything else was correct on the fuel filter assembly except for the fuel tank assist pump slot; it contained a divider in the middle of the slot and it was missing a hole for the fuel tank assist pump to align with. Tried it anyway but the vehicle wouldn't start. There was fuel running through the high pressure hose but none coming back through the fuel return hose. Where might I locate a fuel filter assembly for a 2000 2.0 4G94 GDI (H77W-0203912)

Also. What's the purpose of the #2 connector on the fuel filter assembly?

bob_oz
bob_oz's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 31/03/2011
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #20
ah that's crap

no good!

that must be an old design  - ive never seen that in my 2002 MPI filters.

what is the #2 fitting?

mine has three:
- HP fuel out
- LP fuel return from fuel rail and
- LP fuel transfer from other saddle (moved via venturi from LP fuel return)

one major failure of the filters is the HP overpressure o-ring, it comes shoved into the port from new but the bung needs to have the O-ring fitted to the bung before insertion into the filter, you cannot just shove the bung in and hope the o-ring seats because it's just pushed deeper into the filter.

results in low/zero fuel pressure to engine as it just bypasses back into the tank via the over-pressure release

.

albertoaraya
albertoaraya's picture
  • Online Status: Offline
  • Joined: 21/04/2016
  • Posts:
  • Post Number: #21
FUEL tank - mitsubishi Junior io h77w

PART NUMBERS


FUEL FILTER : MB906933 , FUEL PUMP : MR497143 ( IN FUEL TANK )
FUEL TANK ASSIST PUMP : MR431128

 

Mitsubishi Junior IO , H77WLNUEL1NQ
Engine : 4G94 Ext : WH2A , Trans Axle : V5M21 4900 , MPI
2.0L 2000CC l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspi

Syndicate

Syndicate content

Translate This Site Into Your Language